• Dense, compact, vertical growth;
• Neat, regular growth habit;
• Good cold hardiness.

1. Select a location for the hedge. To make the hedge line as straight as possible, notch the posts at the start and end points and join them with a stitch. Then dig a trench wide enough for the root system, adding at least 5 cm on each side.
   For example, if you ordered a 25 cm tall plant with a 30 cm root system, dig a 40 cm wide trench. Mix the soil at the bottom of the trench with the planting soil to make it loose and well-drained. Use about 10 liters of black soil per ‘running’ metre of trench. This is important for better rooting. If the soil is very poor, some fertilizer can be added to strengthen the root system and encourage establishment.
2. Place the plants in the trench about 60-75 cm apart. Make sure their root systems do not extend above the edge of the trench. If the plant has a net wrapped around the root ball, it can be left in place.
3. Fill the trench with soil. Then use your foot to gently press down the soil so that the soil around the plant is slightly lower than the sides of the trench. This will help the plant absorb nutrients and water. Compacting the soil may straighten the plant (if necessary). If the plant is larger than 120 cm and is planted in a windy area, it is better to tie it to a post. This will also prevent the plant from swaying and breaking the new roots as they form. The best way to do this is to drive a wooden stake into the ground at a 45° angle about 30-45 cm from the plant. The end of the stake that is above the ground should face the prevailing wind so that when the wind blows, it will blow in the direction of the stake and not knock it out of the ground.
4. Once the trees are planted, proper watering is very important. About 10 liters of water is needed per plant. If the edge of the trench sinks, add soil, but do not forget to leave a small depression. Watering should be repeated after one week.
5. During the first year after planting, especially if planted between March and October, the fence should be thoroughly watered every week. During the fall and winter, weekly watering is not necessary as natural rainfall increases. It is important to keep an eye on moisture levels. Over watering can also be detrimental. It is advisable to make sure that the soil is not already wet before watering. If the leaves of the laurel trees turn yellow and fall off, it means that they have not been watered properly.
6. After planting, it is recommended that all new shoots be pruned back about 5 cm. This pruning can be repeated for newly planted plants after a few weeks to make the plants more bushy rather than tall and thin.
7. Once the hedge has reached the desired height, it can be pruned once a year in late spring/early summer. This is the right time to prune because enough new foliage has grown to cover the areas of damaged foliage. It is best to use pruning shears rather than a brushcutter, as the shears will not damage the foliage.

Laurel hedges are very easy to grow and are usually free of diseases and pests. Occasionally, laurels suffer from diseases that may affect the appearance of the foliage, but rarely threaten the life of the plant. The most common disease is powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a fungus that can infect young leaves in humid conditions and temperatures between 6 and 30 degrees. Rainfall or drier conditions can stop the spread of the disease. Powdery mildew does not threaten the life of the plant, but it will affect its appearance.

Powdery mildew can be recognized by a white powdery coating on the leaf, especially on the underside of the leaf. Young leaves may also shrivel as a result of powdery mildew.

When the powdery coating disappears, the leaves have brown spots or are completely brown and wilted. Such a leaf should be cut off.

In most cases, the disease will disappear with a change in the weather. If the appearance of the plant has been severely affected by the disease, cut out the diseased leaves. Then disinfect the scissors to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants. Do not add diseased leaves to the compost. You can also use store-bought potassium bicarbonate mixtures to control powdery mildew.

Most types of laurel tree are relatively pest-free, especially once they are well established. Damage is usually limited to small plants less than 90 cm in height or, in the case of the grapevine weevil, to potted plants. Damage caused by pests is also usually superficial and cosmetic, but does not affect the health of the plant.

One such pest is snails, which can cause damage by eating the edges of laurel leaves. The damage is superficial and does not affect the overall health of the plant.

Slugs should only be controlled on smaller plants. Once the laurel plants are established, control is not necessary. Snails can be controlled with a variety of chemical pellets as well as organic mixtures available at garden centers.

We also offer

• Other varieties of laurel,
• Pine seedlings,
• Spruce seedlings.